Mountaineering in Tien-Shan & Pamir

Mustag Ata Peak 7546m


Muztag-Ata is the “father of the ice mountains” – a mountain in the Pamir, located in the territory of China. The height is 7546 m, due to the gentle western slope and relatively dry weather in the region. 

Muztag-Ata is located near the south of Kongur, the highest peak of the Kongurmuztag mountain range. Together they form an almost isolated group separated from the Kunlun Ridge in the east and from the rest of the Pamir in the west. To the northeast of this mountain system lies the Tarim basin and the Takla-Makan desert. Between the peaks there is the Kara-Kol lake, next to which is the Karakorum highway.

From the ice dome Muztagata descends 16 glaciers. The largest of them – Coxel, located on the eastern slope, has a length of 21 km.

The Swedish researcher and geographer Sven Gedin was the first, whose attempt to conquer the Muztag-Ata mountain in 1894 was recorded. The following attempts were made in 1900 and 1904 and 1947.

In 1956, a large group of Chinese and Soviet athletes successfully crossed the summit through the western ridge, along a route that is now considered standard. More complex routes along the eastern and southern ridges of the summit were completed, respectively, in 2000 and in 2005