Mountaineering in Tien-Shan & Pamir

Mountaineering expedition Khan-Tengri Peak

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Season: July 10 – August 25

 

Scheme of standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:

Days

Itinerary:

Accommodation

1.

International flight. Arrival in Bishkek.

Hotel 3*

2.

Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karkara base camp (460 km, 7-8 hrs). Overnight in tent camp at the altitude 2200 m.

Karkara Camp

3.

Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.

Base Camp Tents

4-18.

Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

Base Camp Tents/ own tents

19.

Helicopter flight to BC Karkara (~25 min).  Land transfer to Bishkek (460 км, 7-8 hrs). Overnight in the hotel.

Hotel 3*

20.

Free day (reserve day) in Bishkek

Hotel 3*

21.

Transfer to Bishkek (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Transfer to airport. Departure.

 

Scheme of standard programme Karkara – Karkara:

Days

Itinerary:

Accommodation

1.

Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in climber’s own tents at 4100 м.

2-16.

Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

17.

Helicopter flight from the Base Camp to Karkara (~ 25 min).

 

Helicopter schedule 2022

July         5, 12, 14, 19, 20, 25, 28, 30

August    2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 16, 17, 24, 25

 

Prices 2022:

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek (20 days in-country):    USD 2400 per person
Standard programme Karkara –Karkara (17 days): USD 1310 per person

Service included in standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Return land transfer from Bishkek airport to Karkara
  • Return helicopter flight Karkara – Khan-Tengri Base Camp
  • Accommodation:
    – – in Bishkekl:   Hotel 3* – 2 nights maximum
    – – in Karkara Camp: tents (2 people sharing basis, incl. breakfast) – 2 night maximum
    – – in Khan-Tengri Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
  • Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – unlimited
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri Peak (Chapaev Peak)
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in the Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

* * * * * * *

Service included in standard programme Karkara – Karkara:

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Helicopter flight Karkara – Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Karkara (baggage limit is 30kg, surcharge is USD 5 per kg per one way flight)
  • Accommodation in climbers’ own tents on the territory of Base Camp
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri (Chapaev Peak)
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in the Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Service available at extra payment:  

  • One way and transfer Bishkek – Karakol                      $ 150 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max
  • One way land transfer Karakol – Karkara                      $ 160 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max
  • Baggage delivery from Karkara to Khan-Tengri Base Camp $5 per kg

Note: Baggage is delivered by scheduled flight

  • Meals: Full Board in Karkara Camp                 $ 40 per person per day
  • Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 65 per person per day
  • Set of high altitude food – USD 120 per set
  • Cooking set – USD 25
  • Rent of tents for higher camps – USD 80 per programme
  • Bar
  • Internet in the camp – USD 5 per hour
  • International calls by satellite phone  – USD 4 per minute
  • Accommodation in Bishkek:
      Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 60-75, standard single room $50-60 incl. breakfast
    Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, and Guest Houses are available by request.
  • Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
  • Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type:              $ 10 per canister (230 gr)
  • Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):
  • Mountain Guide: $ 3500 per programme
  • Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards:                       $ 4200 per programme

NB: We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:2 maximum. For group of 3 clients we advise to have the second Guide. Minimum $ 2000 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

  •  Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (available in Bishkek only – safety deposit $300 is required): $ 10 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
  • Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price list
  • Acclimatization programme on Ak-Sai Glacier
  • Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake
  • Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others
  1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 7 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 7 weeks) extra charge for formalities $ 50 per person is charged.
  2. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
    3. Usually organization providing helicopter for work in area of Khan-Tengri Peak confirms price for helicopter service just before the season – in May. In case of significant rise in prices for helicopter flights (10% and more) ITMC reserves the right to change programme price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.
  3. Every climber can take on helicopter up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (approx. one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check total weight on your flight. The price for overweight baggage on helicopter is $ 5 per kg.
  4. Helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier usually operates from July 15 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.
    6. If expedition group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.
  5. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of $ 40 000.

High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, snowshoes, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood (down, goretex), warm & waterproof over-gloves or mitts, cap, balaclava, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), rope, ice axe, 5 season sleeping bag (dawn, for up to -30C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (60-80 l), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, ice axe.

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