Lenin Peak - Lenin Peak

Ascent to Razdelnaya peak 6148 m

Администратор — Fri, 18 Feb 2022 06:17:10 +0000

Best season: July 15 – August 25, 2022

Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh
Day 1. International flight to Osh. Arrival in Osh Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m). BC tent

Day 2. Acclimatization and radial hiking Achik-Tash Base Camp 3700m

Day 3. Trekking to ABC camp 4200m

Day 4-5. Acclimatization and radial hiking in ABC, as option ascent to Yukhina Peak (5130m).

Day 6. Trekking from ABC – C1 (5300m)

Day 7. Mt. Razdelnaya – 6148m – C1 5300m

Day 8. C1 (5300m) – ABC (4200m)

Day 9. ABC – BC

Day 10. Reserve day for the case of bad weather

Day 11. Transfer to Osh to hotel or airport

Note: Duration of program can be changed by request.

Price 2022 – USD 600 per person

Service included in standard program Osh-Osh:

ü Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp

ü Registration in local Rescue Service

ü Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club

ü Airport transfers in Osh
ü Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh *)

ü Accommodation:
– – in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
– – in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
– – in tents at 5300m

ü Full board in the Base Camp (3700m)

ü Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)

ü Summer Shower and Russian Baths in Base Camp

ü Outdoor toilet

ü Storage service

ü Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries

ü Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)

ü Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

ü Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Price does not include:

– Mountain guide for this trip – USD 1700

– Extra days in BC or ABC

Extensions:

ú Acclimatization program for Lenin Peak in Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier

ú Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak

ú Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

* * * * * * *

Conditions and notes:

1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities US$ 70 per person is charged.
2. For individuals and groups up to 4 climbers shared transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh will be provided, day of transfer is floating. Departure schedule of transfers to join should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 15 or departure after August 20 an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.

3. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
4. Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserves right to change air fare without prior notice.

5. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of US$ 40 000.

The post Ascent to Razdelnaya peak 6148 m first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Unforgettable rest at the foot of Lenin Peak

Menn — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:45:09 +0000

Season: July – August

Mysterious and enigmatic Pamir is located in the border area of several countries: Tajikistan, Afghanistan, China, Kyrgyzstan and Pakistan. Kyrgyzstan borders with Tajikistan on the South, this is the Northern part of Pamir. There are a lot of legends and various stories about severity and inaccessibility of this mountain system. It raises the sparkling peaks above the clouds. No wonder the unofficial name of the Pamir is “the Roof of the World”. We invite you to visit the foothills of the Pamir, to get in this special atmosphere, to feel cold breath of the mountains, to touch eternity and, finally, to feel yourself as a part of something huge and great. All this feelings you will get within a week of lodging in our mountain camps located on the foot of Lenin Peak.

Scheme of program

1^st Day. Arrival to Osh

As soon as you arrive at the Osh airport our company will arrange your meeting, transfer and accommodation in a comfortable hotel. If you have spare time this day, we will arrange for you excursion to Sulaiman-Too – a sacred place for all Muslims. During the excursion you will visit the Museum, situated within the natural cave in the mountain and admire the panorama of Osh from the observation deck, located next to the Babur house, he was great-grandson of Iron Limp Timur and the founder of the Great Mongolian Empire. We will offer you national dishes at the local cafe for dinner this night.

2^nd Day. Osh – Achik-Tash

We will have long transfer to the base camp today. Camp is located at the foot of the Chon-Alai range. Good road smoothly goes up to Chyiyrchyk pass (2402 m) and further comes down to Dzhayly-Suu Valley by several serpentines. The road terns sharply to the right in the area, where small Dzhayly-Suu River goes in to Gulcha River. Further the road leads us towards of the Taldyk pass (3615 m), climbs as a steep serpentine road. This is the scenic road! The red cliffs with narrow canyons at the left side of the road are amazing! Taldyk pass is the gate to the mysterious Alai valley. As soon as you go down to the valley, in case of sunny weather, you will see a huge snow-covered and ice-covered Chon-Alai range. Average altitude of the peaks is 6000 meters. This fascinating view will impress everyone. A lot of streams and rivers flow from the Northern shoulder of the ridge and run to Kyzyl-Suu River to feet it. We should note here that Kyzyl-Suu River is the part of the largest river in Central, Amu-Darya. We will cross Kysyl-Suu River through the bridge which is located just behind of Kashka-Suu. Alai valley is huge and amazing.

You can see here simple life of local Alai Kyrgyz people. They migrate to the valley in summer time with their herds. You can see also a lot of marmots crossing the road in summer time. As soon as you arrive at the base camp you will feel warm atmosphere of base camp. Staff of the camp is always very hospitable and will do the best you enjoy your time here. You will stay in the tent for two persons, have a rest in cozy dining room, and take a shower after long transfer. Base camp is equipped with electricity, Wi-Fi and other signs of civilization. And for sure you will see a massive white wall with the top of Lenin Peak (7134 m) from the right.

Welcome to Pamir!

3^rd Day. Achik-Tash

After overnight on the green glade at the altitude of 3600 m and have a delicious breakfast, we suggest you to go for a walk around our camp. There are many small lakes in this area remaining from the last glaciations. The lakes are situated at the moraine which leveled off and covered with turf by present time. Moraine is covered with countless Edelweisses and wild mountain onions, which is fine for food. Only the blue saucers of the lakes, randomly scattered among the low hills with snow-white tops reflected in them, indicate about the once powerful glaciations here. You can walk down to the rapid river Ashik-Tash. It carries dirty water to Kyzyl-Suu River. You should cross the River to right side through the bridge and walk to the Tulpar-Kel Lake and other smaller lakes. There are always a lot of mushrooms here. You can collect it and ask cook to make them for dinner. After lunch and some rest in the camp, we recommend you to climb to the shoulder of Petrovsky Peak for acclimatization. The peak rises just above our camp. You will enjoy the view of numerous lakes and camps of other tourist companies from the bird’s eye view. Do not doubt, it worth your efforts to climb up! You will go down the scree directly to our camp.

4^th Day. Achik-Tash – Advanced Base Camp

Today is the most difficult day. There is a long but incredible way to the ABC located at the foot of Lenin Peak. Climbers make their ascent to the mountain from this camp. First of all, we reach Lukovaya Polyana(“Wild Onion Meadow”) place, where a lot of wild onion grows. Further we will begin an ascent to the Puteshestvennikov Pass (4128 m). This is the serpentine path. Magnificent view of the Lenin glacier and the Lenin massif will open from the pass. Descend downhill after and a long way along the trail to the first camp. All the time you will meet numerous groups of climbers and horse caravans carry food and equipment to the camp. The path goes on the left side of the glacier, then steeply rise up or smoothly goes down. Do not worry. You can do it; you will definitely be able to reach the first camp in order to feel the spirit of real adventure, to touch this exciting heart and soul, an unknown sense of belonging to something great and mysterious.

Camp staff are already waiting for you in the first camp at 4400 m. You will be warmly welcomed upon arrival by our camp manager and offered a great hot and healthy lunch. Your exploits are finished for today. You can have a rest and relax until the evening and, of course, admire the wall of Lenin Peak, towering over you for almost three kilometers. In the evening you can make photo session, when the sun set to the horizon and fade on the slopes of the surrounding mountains.

5^th Day. Advanced Base camp

It seems that everything is ringing in the morning, even the frosty air. The snow creaks under your feet as you make your way to the dining room. Fragrant hot coffee and delicious breakfast brings you back to reality. Easy hiking around the camp today. Visit to small, half-closed ice lake, trek to the very beginning of the trail leading directly to the glacier. Overseeing the barely discernible strings of climbers going to the second camp. If you are the most restless and confident in own abilities, you can try to make the ascent to Yukhin Peak (5122 m). But it must be discussed with the guide in the evening of the previous day. On the way, and especially from the top, opens extremely beautiful views of Lenin Peak from the South, and the Alai valley from the North. Descent to the camp and rest. If you are lucky, you can listen interesting stories of experienced climbers about their adventure during the dinner in the evening.

6^th Day. Advanced base Camp – Achik-Tash

We will say goodbye to the first camp in the morning after breakfast, and will go down to the base camp. It is so nice to come back to the warm place, go through green lawns after endless moraines and permanent snow. We may have pleasant gatherings in the dining room in the evening, sing to guitar music and chatting with mountain climbers.

7^th Day. Achik-Tash – Osh

Today we return to hot and stifling Osh town. We will enjoy the view of the dawn’s colors of Lenin Peak slopes before departure and say goodbye to the friendliest hosts of the camp. We will admire the beauty of the surrounding mountains from the car window on the way again. Lunch at a local cafe and check-inn in hotel on arrival in Osh. As option, we can visit the oriental bazaar, buy souvenirs and walk around the Osh.

8^th Day. Way home

Airport transfer in the morning. Check-in for the flight and departure home.

Price 2022:
Group of 2 persons = 1020 USD / чел
Group of 3 persons = 780 USD / чел

Group of 4 persons = 640 USD / чел

Group of 6 persons = 540 USD / чел

Group of 8 persons = 480 USD / чел

Single supplement = 45 USD per person per programme

Price includes the following service:
– Mountain Guide for trekking

– Twin accommodation in the hotels 3* in Osh and in tents during the trek

– Meals: full board during the trek, breakfasts in the hotel

– Land transfers by minibus

– Border permit

Price does not include:
– International flight or domestic flight from Bishkek

– Meals in local café in Osh and on the way to Achik-Tash

– Sleeping bags and personal trekking outfit

– Porters or horses service to deliver personal belongings from BC at 3600 to ABC at 4200m – USD 3 per kilo

– Alcohol drinks in café, restaurant and during the trek

* * * * * * *

Note:

1. Tourists must have medical insurance policy with coverage of USD 40 000.

The post Unforgettable rest at the foot of Lenin Peak first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Climbing Skobelev Peak

Menn — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:44:29 +0000

Best season: July – August

Day 1. Arrival in Osh, meeting at the airport, transfer to hotel. Sightseeing in Osh. Last preparation before the trek.

Day 2. After breakfast transfer to the start point of the trip, near Kashka-Suu village. Acclimatization and trekking along the valley. Set up tents for overnight.

Day 3. Trek up along Kashka-Suu valley till the head of Kokjar river. Here we set our tents for overnight.

Day 4. Continue trekking to river outlet. Set base camp for ascent to Skobelev peak.

Day 5. After breakfast we continue ascending along river, that will lead us to moraine. Overnight on the foot of 4650m pass.

Day 6. Ascent to Skobelev peak (5051m). Return to Base Camp on the head of the Kokjar river.

Day 7. Descent to Kashka-Suu village where we will be picked up and transferred to Osh. Rest and overnight in a Hotel

Day 8. Airport transfer, departure

Note:

Tourists must have medical insurance policy with the coverage of USD 40 000.

Requirements: good physical condition and experience in other trekking.

Each porter carries 20 kg of commercial weight. Overweight is paid, USD 2 per kg.

Programme price 2022

Group of 2 people = USD 1920 per person

Group of 4 people = USD 1335 per person
Group of 5 people = USD 1335 per person
Group of 6 people = USD 1230 per person

Single supplement = USD 45 per person per programme, available in Osh hotel only.

Price includes

· All land transfer is according to the programme by minibus,

· Accommodation in twin standard room

· Tent for trekking period (double sharing basis)

· English speaking trekking guide

· Cook for trekking period

· Porters to carry tent food and tent only

· Full board from Lunch on Day 1 till Breakfast on Day 9

· Kitchen utensils for trekking

· Entrance fee to museum in Osh

The post Climbing Skobelev Peak first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Trekking in Pamir, towards Lenin peak

Menn — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:43:46 +0000

Best season: July – August

Day 1. Arrival in Osh, meeting at the airport, transfer to a hotel. Sightseeing in Osh. Last preparation before the trek.

Day 2. After breakfast transfer to the foothill of Kichik-Alay Range. Tent camp near Kapaly village.

Day 3. After breakfast cross Kosh-Moinok pass (3225m). Trek down to Sary-Bel valley, cross Sary-Bel pass (3137m). Arrive in Kojekelen valley. Here we set our tents for overnight.

Day 4. Continue trekking to foothill of Jiptyk pass. Here we set our tents for overnight.

Day 5. Cross Jyptyk pass (4175m) and down to Alay valley. Set up tent camp near Sary-Mogol village.

Day 6. After breakfast transfer to Achik-Tash gorge to Base Camp of Lenin peak. Rest and overnight in tent in Base camp.

Day 7. Radial trekking to Petrovskyi peak. Overnight in Base Camp.

Day 8. Radial trekking to Puteshestvennikov pass, there is a possibility to trek up to Advanced camp (4200m). Back to Base Camp and overnight in tents.

Day 9. Breakfast and transfer to Osh. Last minute shopping. Rest and overnight in a Hotel.

Day 10. Airport transfer, departure

Note

Tourists must have medical insurance policy with coverage of USD 40 000.

Requirements: good physical condition and experience in other trekking.

Each porter carries 20 kg of commercial weight. Overweight is paid, USD 2 per kg.

Programme price 2022

Group of 2 people = USD 1680 per person
Group of 4 people = USD 1040 per person
Group of 6 people = USD 885 per person
Group of 8 people = USD 760 per person

Single supplement = USD 45 per person per programme, available in Osh hotel only.

Price includes

· Transport support during the trekking trip

· Accommodation in twin standard room

· Tent for trekking period (double sharing basis)

· Accommodation in Base Camp

· English speaking trekking guide

· Cook for trekking period

· Full board from Lunch on Day 1 till Breakfast on Day 10

· Kitchen utensils for trekking

· Entrance fee to museum in Osh

· International air-fare

· Sleeping bags during trekking period

· Alcohol and beverages in restaurants

· Adventure Travel & Culture in Kyrgyzstan

Price does not include

· International air-fare

· Sleeping bags during trekking period

· Alcohol and beverages in restaurants

The post Trekking in Pamir, towards Lenin peak first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Climbing Yukhin Peak

Menn — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:40:59 +0000

Best season: July 15 – August 25

Location: Pamir

Duration: 9 Days

Highly recommended: All tourists must have medical insurance for the particular activities with a minimum coverage of USD 35 000.

Border permit is required and must be arranged preliminary. Paper work takes 5-6 weeks.

Yukhina peak (5130m) is the best mountain for beginners; this is the ascent not trekking trip. Climbing route considers as being technically easy, and it is required to be in a good physical fit and proper acclimatization during the trip. From the top you will see massive snow wall of Lenin peak on the one hand and Alay valley on the other.

Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh

1^st Day. Arrive in Osh

Arrival to Osh city, airport meeting and transfer to the hotel. After taking a rest, you can have a walk around the city and visit bazaars.

2^nd Day. Osh – Achik-Tash

Transfer to Achik-Tash is right after the breakfast on agreed time, driving time takes up to 6-7 hours with stopping for a lunch on the way there. The Base Camp is located near the river; the transport will take you right to the camp. Dinner and overnight will be organized in Tent Camps.

3^rd Day. Base Camp 3700m

Acclimatization and radial trekking. Full board in Base Camp

4^th Day. Base Camp – Advanced Base camp

Breakfast. Trekking to ABC (4200m) takes about 5 hours. Rest and overnight in tent camp.

5^th Day. Advanced Base Camp – Yukhina peak

Ascent to Yukhina peak, it takes approximately 4 hours. After that, we return back to the camp for having a rest in ABC at 4200m.

6^th Day. Advanced base Camp 4200m

Reserve day in case of bad weather.

7^th Day. Advanced Base Camp 4200 – Base Camp 3700

Descent to Base Camp, you will receive the Certificate of Ascending given by our camp manager, dinner and overnight in Base Camp.

8^th Day. Achik-Tash – Osh

The transport to Osh will arrive after the breakfast. You will be able to do shopping and have some rest until then. Overnight in a hotel.

9^th Day. Departure

Airport transfer, flight home.

Conditions and notes:

1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier; in case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charges for formalities will cost $70 per person

2. If the expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh.

For more details please contact us at itmc@elcat.kg

Prices 2022 – USD 350 per person

Service included in standard program Osh-Osh:

· Visa support (if required)

· Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)

· Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp

· Registration in local Rescue Service

· Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club

· Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (way back)

· Airport transfers in Osh

· Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh *)

· Accommodation:

– – in Osh: Hotel 3* – for 2 nights (including breakfast)

– – in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses

– – in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

· Full board in the Base Camp (3700m)

· Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)

· Summer Shower and Russian Baths in Base Camp

· Outdoor toilet

· Storage service

· Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries

· Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)

· Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

· Assistance in changing flight tickets (if necessary). You will only be charged with an airline company fees.

Service available at extra payment (not included in standard programs):

· Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek US $120

Note: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fare without a prior notice.

· Accommodation in Bishkek:

Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room US$ 70-85, standard single room US$ 45-50 incl. breakfast

Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

· Meals in Osh and Bishkek

Service available at extra payment in Base Camp and in Advanced Base Camp:

· Bar

· Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: US$ 9 per new canister (230gr), US$ 6/refilled canister

Note: Empty canisters have to be returned to the Base Camp

· Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear): USD 1020 per programme

· Horses (BC to ABC, 4200m): US$ 3 per kg

· Porterage service

· Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit of $ 400 is required): US$ 25 per day (Extra charge for Thuraya airtime). Use of sat phone in ABC is free of charge, but you will be responsible to pay for calls and SMS: US$ 4 / minute, US$ 2 / sms.

The post Climbing Yukhin Peak first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Guided asscent to Lenin Peak, 7134m

Menn — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:33:07 +0000

Season: July – August

Price of 2022 program is USD 2000 per person

Minimum group size is 3 pers.

Scheme of program

Day 1 International flight to Osh.
Day 2 Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m). Base Camp Tents.
Day 3 Acclimatization, trekking around. Base Camp Tents.
Day 4 Camp 1 – ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 5 ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 6 ABC (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7 ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 8 ABC (4200 m) – Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 9 Mt. Razdelnaya (6100m)
Day 10 ABC (4200 m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 11 ABC (4200 m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 12 Camp 2 (5300 m).
Day 13 Camp 3 (6100m).
Day 14 Camp 4 (6400m).
Day 15 Ascent to Lenin peak, Descent to (6100m).
Day 16 Camp 2 (5300m) or ABC (4200m). Advanced Base Camp Tents.
Day 17 Base Camp (3700m). Base Camp Tents.
Day 18 Transfer to Osh. Sun Rise Hotel, 3*.
Day 19 Departure by morning flight.

Services included in standard program Osh-Osh:

- Visa support (if required)
- Registration with passport department OVIR (if required)
- Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
- Registration with local Rescue Service
- Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
- English speaking mountain guide – instructor*
- Airport transfers in Osh
- Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh
- Accommodation:

– – in Osh: Guest House – 1 night including Breakfast
– – in Base Camp: Tents on two people sharing basis + warm mattresses
– – in Advanced Base Camp: Tents on two people sharing basis
– – in Camp 2 (5200m): High altitude tent (double sharing basis)

Full board at Base Camp (3700m)
Full board at Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
Dehydrated meal for ascent period + gas + gas stove
Summer Shower in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge
batteries
Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. (This does not include fees charged by the Airline, these must be paid by the client)

*Note: Guide accompany group, provide ascent/route consultation and help to choose tactics for ascent.

Service available at extra cost (not included in standard programs):

Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh
Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek US$ 60 – 120 / return way

Note: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fare without prior notice.

Accommodation in Bishkek:

Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room US$ 60, standard single room US$ 50 incl. breakfast
Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

Meals in Osh and Bishkek
Extra meals in Base Camp (3700m) – US$ 25 per person per day
Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200m) -US$ 40 per person per day
Bar
Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type -US$ 9 per new canister (230gr), US$ 4/refilled canister

Minimum technical requirements:

Mountaineering experience in the mountains up to 2000-2500m and ascents of easy technical level;
Basic skills in using climbing equipment;
Attaching to the rope and other climbing knots;
Moving efficiently over rocky ‘scrambling’ terrain;
Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice and snow;
Use of crampons and ice axe on snow and ice;
Taking coils and moving together with the rope;
Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
Descending on snow and ice;
Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebook;
Selection and preparation of climbing equipment;
First medical aid

Extensions:

Acclimatization program for Lenin Peak in Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier;
Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak;
Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

Conditions and notes:

Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities US$ 50 per person is charged.
For individuals and groups up to 4 climbers shared transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh will be provided, day of transfer is floating. Departure schedule of transfers to join should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 10 or departure after August 20 an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.
Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent.
Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserves right to change air fare without prior notice.
On domestic flights baggage allowance is 15 kg per person, overweight is charged at US$ 1 / kg.
If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. For more details please contact us.
Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of US$ 40 000.

Route description: Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the “Skovorodka” (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) part of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours.

This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.

From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

List of equipment:

High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, baselayer, down jacket, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof gloves or mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5m / 16ft of 6mm cord), rope, ice axe (light, not technical), sleeping bag (up to -25C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (40 l minimum), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, kitchen/dining set, medical aid k

The post Guided asscent to Lenin Peak, 7134m first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Lenin Peak Climbing Program

Menn — Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:20:41 +0000

Itinerary

Best season:

July – August

Mountaineering Expedition

Route description:

Lenin Peak, 7134m, Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Lenin Peak (7,134m) is one of the easiest of the World peaks over 7000m. It is situated in Zaalaisky Range of Pamir mountains on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It is located in the biggest City of the Osh International Airport. There is a 290 km road from Osh City to the Base Camp (BC) in Achiktash region. It goes through Osh – Gulcha village – Taldyk pass – Sary–Tash village – Kashka-Suu village – Achiktash district. 255 km of 290 are paved highway and 35 km is gravel road. Travel time by car is about 5-7 hours. The 90^th anniversary jubilee of the first ascent was held by Kyrgyz Alpine Club Mountaineering in July 2018.

Route description.

3600m – ABCamp, 4300m.

It is possible to go from BC to Lukovaya polyana (onion glade) by foot or by car (6 km). From Lukovaya Glade the trail goes southwest along the rocky ridge up to the Puteshestvennikov pass (Travellers’ pass). The ascent takes about 1 – 1.5h. Further the trail goes downhill for 15-20 min and then for about 30-60 min it goes along the same ridge with a slight climb up to the crossing point. The crossing of the river is usually not a problem in the morning when the water level is not high and it is possible to cross by jumping over the stones. However, in the hot afternoon the water level is increasing and river crossing can become very difficult and dangerous. After the river the trail follows for 1.5 – 2 h on the moraines till ABCamp. In total it takes about 3-5 hours to get from BC to ABC.

АВС, 4300m – Camp 1 (С1), 5200m.

The trail to Camp 1 first goes in direction to the centre of the northern slope of Lenin peak then up to Lenin glacier and follows up to the beginning of ascent. This part of the glacier and moraines is flat. There are some scours and cracks which can be easily avoided. It takes about 45-60 min from ABC to the beginning of the ascent. The ascent follows icy northern slopes covered with ice with the angle of 15º -30º which at some parts become 40º. There are some deep wide crevasses which can be traversed. Narrow cracks can be jumped over or crossed by the snow bridges. After this part of the trail the path goes along the slope into syncline (5000m) and further along the slope in southwest and west direction into C1. Starting from the ascent and up to C1 it is necessary to proceed in rope team. The ascent time is 5-9 hours.

C1 (5200m) – C2, Razdelnaia (6148m)

From C1 the ascent goes to the left of rocks up to the shoulder of the range to Razdelnaia. The steepness of the slope is 15º-30º. C2 is situated on the left side in 100 meters from the Razdelnaya summit. The ascent takes up to 4-7 hours.

С2 (Razdelnaia). 6148m – the Lenin peak, 7134 m – С2.

Taking the climbers for an acclimatization usually takes 1 day (to hike from C1) up to the summit and back. First, there is a short descent to the saddle between Razdelnaya and C3 of Lenin peak range. The ascent goes from the ridge up the snowy slope with occasional access to the rocks and narrow flat ridge up to the summit. To guarantee the successful ascent usually C3 is set up here at the altitude of 6400m. Further, the trail takes up the ridge to the narrow 100m long ascent with 20º-30º steepness called “the knife”.

It is compulsory to use harness at this stage. Follow the ridge up to the pre-summit plateau (6900-7000m) and continue up to the summit along the flat snowy slopes. Tour in the shape of Lenin bust is located a little bit lower of the summit, which is 100 m to southeast. The descent follows the ascent trail. It is strongly recommended for ascent to start off from C2 as early as possible, not later than 5 am. The time of ascent and descent is 10-14 hours.

Ascent tactics.

Technically the route is not difficult, but summiting depends on the choice of tactics. Among the main difficulties and hazards are the altitude, crevasses, avalanches and bad weather. Proper acclimatization becomes of the main significance. Climbing experience of the Lenin peak proves that the most appropriate acclimatization is 2 goes with 1-2 nights in C1 and C2 and descend to the BC for good rest.

The ascent during acclimatization should be consecutive to the increasing altitude. Acclimatization hikes should start very early – before 5 am. Start from C2 to summit is recommended, not later than 3 AM.

Acclimatization is often combined with transporting and setting up of intermediate camps. If mountaineers lack climbing experience at the altitude, it is strongly recommended to go on acclimatization climbs with experienced mountain guides or instructors. Also, if climbers do not feel confident in their strength and experience, it is advised to set up additional camp at the altitude of 6400m.

Safety.

Among the technical skills, ensuring safety there are command of the language and skills on eliminating and minimizing different hazardous factors of the ascent. These are the following:

1) Ice crevasses from ABC to C1 which require skills of climbing in rope team on the glaciers, crossing snow bridges over the crevasses, conducting search and rescue with disposed equipment and skills on self-rescue from crevasses;

2) Skills of identifying avalanche hazard, crossing of the avalanche-prone slopes, search in avalanche, skills on operating avalanche trackers;

3) Transportation of the injured person using disposed equipment;

4) First aid skills. For ensuring the effective search and rescue operation it is necessary to register with the relevant rescue company (www.rescue.travelasia.kg ) at least 1 month before the climbing and also possess the proper insurance policy (up to EUR30000) covering possible rescue works.

Scheme of program

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek

Days	Itinerary	Accommodatio
1.	International flight to Bishkek.	–
2.	Arrival in Bishkek. Morning Domestic Flight to Osh.	3* Hotel
3.	Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).	Base Camp Tents
4-18.	Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
19.	Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.	3* Hotel
20.	Domestic Flight to Bishkek. Transfer to Hotel.	3* Hotel
21.	International flight from Bishkek.	–

Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh

Days	Itinerary	Accommodation
1.	International flight to Osh (directly from Russia and China).	–
2.	Arrival in Osh. Transfer Osh – Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m).	Base Camp Tents
3-17.	Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
18.	Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.	3* Hotel
19.	Departure by morning flight.	–

Note: Duration of programme can be changed by request.

Price

Standard program Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days): USD 1100 per person

Discount for group of 5 people or more – USD 50 per person

Standard program Osh-Osh (19 days): USD 950 per person

Discount for groups of 5 people or more -USD 50 per person

Budget program: USD 300 per person

Discount for groups of 5 people or more -USD 50 per person

Super Budget program: USD 150 per person

Services included in standard package Bishkek-Bishkek (USD 1100):

Visa support (if required)
Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration with local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (Return)
Airport transfers in Osh
Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh *)
Airport transfers in Bishkek on outward travel
Accommodation:

–in Bishkek: Hotel 3* – for 1 night (including breakfast)

–in Osh: Hotel 3* – for 2 nights (excluding breakfast)

–in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses

–in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

Full board in Base Camp (3700m)
Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
Summer Shower in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
Mess tent / Yurt in Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. (This does not include fees charged by the Airline, these must be paid by the client)

Services included in standard package Osh-Osh (USD 950):

Visa support (if required)
Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration with the local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Airport transfers in Osh
Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh
Accommodation:

–in Osh: Guest House – 1 night excluding breakfast

–in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses

–in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

Full board in Base Camp (3700m)
Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
Summer Shower in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
Mess tent / Yurt in Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200m)
Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. (This does not include fees charged by the Airline, these must be paid by the client)

Services included in budget package (USD 300):

Visa support (if required)
Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration with the local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Airport transfers in Osh
Transfers Osh – Achik-Tash (Base Camp) – Osh
Accommodation:

– – in Base Camp: climber’s own tents

– – in Advanced Base Camp: climber’s own tents

Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
Services included in super budget package (USD 150):
Border permit and delivery of the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Accommodation:

– – in Base Camp: climber’s own tents

– – in Advanced Base Camp: climber’s own tents

Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries

NB: Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier. In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks before arrival) extra charges for formalities of US$ 70 per person are applied.

Not included

Services available at extra cost (not included in standard programs)

Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh.

Domestic return flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek US$ 120 Return .

NB: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change airfares without prior notice (ITMC has no control over or responsibility for this).

Accommodation in Bishkek:

3* Hotel, Standard Twin/Double room US$ 70-85, Standard Single room US$ 40-50 incl. Breakfast

Note: Prices for 2*, 4*, 5* Hotels, Guest Houses and Apartments are available on request.

Meals in Osh and Bishkek

Services available at extra payment in Base Camp and in Advanced Base Camp:

Extra meals in Base Camp (3700m): US$ 30 per person per day

Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200m): US$ 40 per person per day

Dehydrated meals for ascent: by price list: US$ 25 per person per day

Bar

Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: US$ 10 per new canister (230gr), US$ 6 per refilled canister

Note: Empty canisters have to be returned to the Base Camp – this is the client’s responsibility

Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):

Mountain Guide: US$ 2500 per programme

Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards: US$ 3500 per programme

NB: We recommend a maximum guide to client ratio of 1:3. For groups of 4 clients two guides are recommended. A minimum of US$950 is charged for Mountain Guides for any number of working days, or if the Guide’s employment

is terminated by the client during the first 5 days.

Horse (BC to ABC, 4200m): US$ 3 per kg (up to 50 kg)

Regular porterage service prices:

ABC (4200m) – Camp 2 (5300m) US$ 8 per kg

Camp 2 (5300m) – Camp 3 (6100m) US$ 10 per kg

Camp 3 (6100m) – Camp 4 (6400m) US$ 15 per kg

Other service prices:

Rental of satellite phone for ascent (a damage or loss Safety Deposit of US$ 400 is required): US$ 10 per day

The US$ 400 Safety Deposit is refundable provided the phone is returned undamaged and fully functional)

Thuraya airtime, when using satellite phone for calls and sms, is charged according to usage, in addition to the rental price.

A satellite phone is available for use at ABC, calls cost US$ 4/minute and SMS US$ 2 per SMS. There is no rental charge for use of this phone on site at ABC but payment is required for any calls made or sms sent

Conditions and notes:

Prices are valid for groups booked and fully paid 8 weeks before the arrival or earlier. In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) an extra charge of US$70 per person is charged for formalities.

For individuals and groups of up to 4 climbers transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh is provided on a shared basis and the day of transfer is variable depending on demand. The departure schedule of transfers should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 15th or departure after August 20th an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.

Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal mountaineering gear and for choosing their own tactics for ascent.

Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserve the right to change airfares without prior notice (ITMC has no control over this and is not responsible for any changes or inconvenience incurred).

The Domestic Flight baggage allowance is 15kg per person, overweight in excess of this is charged at US$1/kg.

If expedition groups prefer to send mountaineering gear/equipment to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. Please contact ITMC directly for further detail..

Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum cover of US$40,000

BOOKING

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