Above 7000m - Lenin Peak

Пик Ленина 7134 м

Администратор — Wed, 16 Feb 2022 06:36:01 +0000

Основные данные о пике Ленина и краткая информация о Кыргызстане

Пик Ленина (до 1928 года — пик Кауфмана) — один из «семитысячников», то есть высочайших вершин бывшего СССР. Одна из высочайших вершин Центральной Азии, находящаяся в горной системе Памира.

Пик Ленина (7134 м) – расположен в Заалайском хребте Памира на границе Кыргызстана и Таджикистана. В Кыргызстане он административно расположен в Чон-Алайском районе Ошской области. В Таджикистане он расположен в Горно-Бадахшанской Автономной области. Заалайский хребет возвышается над Алайской долиной как огромная снежная стена. Со склонов пика стекают несколько крупных ледников: ледник Ленина, с севера и ледники Октябрьский, Большая и Малая Саукдара с юга. Южные склоны более труднодоступны из-за значительных подходов к маршрутам. Северные и южные склоны достигают 40-50 градусов. Снежные лавины – частое явление на пике Ленина. Высота снежной линии на северных склонах 4200-4500 м, на южных склонах – 4800-5000м. К леднику Ленина на Луковую Поляну может подъехать автотранспорт. С южной же стороны от автодороги до начала маршрута подход занимает два дня. Поэтому большинство восхождений на пик совершаются с северной стороны.

Впервые вершина была обнаружена и описана в 1871 году выдающимся русским географом и путешественником Алексеем Павловичем Федченко, который и назвал её в честь Константина Петровича Кауфмана, генерал-губернатора Туркестана

В 1928 году пик был переименован в пик Ленина.

До 1933 года этот пик считался высочайшей вершиной Памира и СССР, пока после восхождения не было установлено, что гора, называемая пик Коммунизма, в тот момент (до 1962 года) носившая название пик Сталина, высотой 7495 метров — выше, чем пик Ленина.

Первое восхождение на пик было совершено немецкими альпинистами Карлом Вайном (Karl Wien), Евгением Алвейном (Eugene Allwein) и Эрвином Шнайдером (Erwin Schneider) 25 сентября 1928 года. Это было сделано в период проведения советско-немецкой экспедиции, руководимой Горбуновым. Также в этой экспедиции участвовал и нарком Крыленко. Впоследствии почти все советские участники экспедиции были расстреляны. Случайно уцелел кинооператор Шнейдеров и один из руководителей экспедиции Шмидт. В период репрессий они находился в длительной полярной экспедиции.

О первовосхождении на пик была очень скудная информация, так как его совершили немцы. Их маршрут пролегал из Саукдары и далее с перевала Крыленко на вершину. Второе восхождение было совершено участниками армейской альпиниады К. Чернухой, В. Абалаковым и И. Лукиным 1934 году. Маршрут был проложен с севера. Впоследствии он назывался «маршрут через скалы Липкина». Группа не обнаружила следов пребывания людей на вершине, и поэтому сначала официально считалось, что группа Чернухи сделала первовосхождение на вершину. Позднее истина была восстановлена и в данное время считается, что первовосхождение совершили немцы.

В 1937 г. восемь альпинистов во главе с Львом Бархашем достигают вершины. Это было третье восхождение.

В 1950 г. двенадцать альпинистов Туркестанского военного округа 14 августа достигли вершины пика Ленина. Это было первое послевоенное восхождение.

Одно из самых массовых восхождений состоялось в августе 1967 г. На вершину поднялось 300 человек.

На данный момент на вершину проложено 18 альпинистских маршрутов. Девять по южному склону и девять по северному, но классическим считается маршрут по северной стороне через вершину Раздельная. Маршрут не требует какой-то специальной технической подготовки и огромного альпинистского опыта. Требуется только здоровье и большое желание. Из-за этого пик Ленина считается одним из самых доступных семитысячников.

В то же время на этом пике было совершено несколько трагических рекордов.

В 1968 году был совершен первый групповой прыжок на высоту 6100 м – успешно.

В том же 1968 году был совершен групповой прыжок на высоту 7000 метров – 4 парашютиста погибли. В том же 1968 году был совершен первый спуск на лыжах альпинистом Сулоевым.

1974 г. памятен многим альпинистам из-за разыгравшейся на его склонах ужасной трагедии. При попытке траверса пика Ленина погибают восемь женщин альпинисток.

В 1990 году в результате землетрясения произошел снежный обвал в районе лагеря 2 – 43 альпиниста погибли. Только в 2009 году были обнаружены останки погибших.

В основном восхождения совершаются без аварий, и успех восходителей зависит часто от погодных условий.

4 июля 2006 года постановлением правительства Таджикистана пик Ленина был переименован в пик имени Абуали ибн Сино. На территории Киргизии гора по-прежнему именуется пиком Ленина.

Жетон за восхождение на пик Ленина

В 1957 году по инициативе В.И.Рацека был учрежден наградной знак «ПИК ЛЕНИНА», который вручался альпинистам, достигшим вершины. Со дня учреждения знака Владимир Иосифович, вручил его более чем двум тысячам восходителей из многих стран всех континентов мира. После смерти В.И.Рацека честь вручения знака «ПИК ЛЕНИНА» была оставлена за его семьей. Но в настоящее время после переезда Галины его жены, и старшей дочери Надежды с мужем и сыном в США (младшая дочь Владимира Иосифовича Ирина проживает в Москве), пока еще не нашлось энтузиаста, чтобы восстановить систему награждения альпинистов, впервые побывавших на всемирно известной вершине.

Маршруты восхождений на пик Ленина с севера.

Маршрут 1. – Через скалы Липкина по «метле» – рук. К.Чернуха 1934

Маршрут 2. – Через скалы Липкина – рук. В.Рацек, 1950

Маршрут 3. – Через вершину Раздельная – рук. В.Ковалев, 1954

Маршрут 4. – С перевала Крыленко – рук. Чередова, 1960

Маршрут 5. – По центру северного склона – рук. Я.Аркин, 1960

Маршрут 6. – По северо-восточному гребню – рук. Ю.Скурлатов, 1967

Маршрут 7. – Через пик 30-летия Узбекистана – рук. Н. Шабанова, 1970

Маршрут 8. – По сев.-восточному склону восточного гребня – рук. Р.Бенуа, 1974

Маршрут 9. – По сев.-восточному склону восточного гребня (вариант) – рук. С.Дуог, 1974

Климат в районе пика Ленина

Климат в районе носит резко контрастный характер. В нижней части – умеренный, в высокогорной зоне принимает суровые полярные черты. Лето короткое и прохладное длится с июня по август месяцы. В высокогорье прогрев приходит с запозданием, поэтому внизу в Алайской долине июль самый теплый месяц, а на склонах гор самым теплым является август.

Колебания суточных температур довольно значительные. В летнее время года они могут достигать от +5 градусов днем до – 30 градусов ночью.

С увеличением высоты температура воздуха падает приблизительно на 0,5 град. на каждые 100 метров подъема.

Ветры имеют юго-западное и западное направление. В дневное время скорость ветра достигает до 6-8 м/сек., а ночью уменьшается до 2-4 м/сек. И порой затихает до полного штиля. Днем часто наблюдаются внезапные порывистые ветры до 15 м/сек. и более.

В высотной части гребней Заалайского хребта отмечается уплотненный фирн, который образуется в результате действия ураганных ветров на высотах от 6200м. Этих ветров следует опасаться во время восхождения.

Облачность, как правило, незначительная. Наиболее ясный период – август. Как правило, в конце августа погода портится и выпадает снег. В июле осадков больше, чем в августе. В сентябре период устойчивой погоды наступает во второй половине месяца.

Грозы и туманы наблюдаются относительно редко.

В районе ледниковых языков ежедневно после 14 часов начинаются сильные ветры. Потоки воздуха, устремляющиеся в долину, могут снести слабо укрепленные палатки.

Наиболее благоприятным временем для восхождения на пик Ленина является первая половина августа. Но, несмотря на преобладающую хорошую погоду, могут быть длительные периоды непогоды (до 4-5 дней).

Подъезд к пику Ленина

Подъезд к пику Ленина обычно совершается из областного центра Ош. Отсюда стартуют все экспедиции с целью восхождения на пик Ленина. Путь идет из Оша по памирскому тракту Ош – Хорог. Сначала через перевал Чигирчик до районного центра Гульча 120 км, затем путь идет на перевал Талдык высотой 3650 м. Небольшой спуск и снова перевал 40 лет Киргизии 3513 м. С перевала спускаемся в Алайскую долину к селу Сары-Таш, где имеется гастхаус. От Сары-Таша путь идет по Алайской долине до поселка Кашка-су. От села Кашка-су путь идет в горы по урочищу Ачик-Таш до поляны эдельвейсов, где расположены базовые лагеря альпинистов. Высота поляны эдельвейсов 3600 м над уровнем моря.

Дорога от Оша до Поляны эдельвейсов занимает 8-10 часов.

The post Пик Ленина 7134 м first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Mountaineering expedition Khan-Tengri Peak

Администратор — Fri, 11 Feb 2022 05:30:23 +0000

Scheme of program

Season: July 10 – August 25

Scheme of standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:

Days	Itinerary:	Accommodation
1.	International flight. Arrival in Bishkek.	Hotel 3*
2.	Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karkara base camp (460 km, 7-8 hrs). Overnight in tent camp at the altitude 2200 m.	Karkara Camp
3.	Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.	Base Camp Tents
4-18.	Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).	Base Camp Tents/ own tents
19.	Helicopter flight to BC Karkara (~25 min). Land transfer to Bishkek (460 км, 7-8 hrs). Overnight in the hotel.	Hotel 3*
20.	Free day (reserve day) in Bishkek	Hotel 3*
21.	Transfer to Bishkek (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Transfer to airport. Departure.	–

Scheme of standard programme Karkara – Karkara:

Days	Itinerary:	Accommodation
1.	Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (~ 25 min). Overnight in climber’s own tents at 4100 м.	–
2-16.	Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).	–
17.	Helicopter flight from the Base Camp to Karkara (~ 25 min).	–

Helicopter schedule 2022

July 5, 12, 14, 19, 20, 25, 28, 30

August 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 11, 16, 17, 24, 25

Price

Prices 2022:

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek (20 days in-country): USD 2400 per person
Standard programme Karkara –Karkara (17 days): USD 1310 per person

Service included in standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:

Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Return land transfer from Bishkek airport to Karkara
Return helicopter flight Karkara – Khan-Tengri Base Camp
Accommodation:
– – in Bishkekl: Hotel 3* – 2 nights maximum
– – in Karkara Camp: tents (2 people sharing basis, incl. breakfast) – 2 night maximum
– – in Khan-Tengri Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – unlimited
Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri Peak (Chapaev Peak)
Summer Shower or Sauna in the Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

* * * * * * *

Service included in standard programme Karkara – Karkara:

Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Helicopter flight Karkara – Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Karkara (baggage limit is 30kg, surcharge is USD 5 per kg per one way flight)
Accommodation in climbers’ own tents on the territory of Base Camp
Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri (Chapaev Peak)
Summer Shower or Sauna in the Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Not included

Service available at extra payment:

One way and transfer Bishkek – Karakol $ 150 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max
One way land transfer Karakol – Karkara $ 160 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max
Baggage delivery from Karkara to Khan-Tengri Base Camp $5 per kg

Note: Baggage is delivered by scheduled flight

Meals: Full Board in Karkara Camp $ 40 per person per day
Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 65 per person per day
Set of high altitude food – USD 120 per set
Cooking set – USD 25
Rent of tents for higher camps – USD 80 per programme
Bar
Internet in the camp – USD 5 per hour
International calls by satellite phone – USD 4 per minute
Accommodation in Bishkek:
Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 60-75, standard single room $50-60 incl. breakfast
Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, and Guest Houses are available by request.
Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $ 10 per canister (230 gr)
Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):
Mountain Guide: $ 3500 per programme
Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards: $ 4200 per programme

NB: We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:2 maximum. For group of 3 clients we advise to have the second Guide. Minimum $ 2000 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (available in Bishkek only – safety deposit $300 is required): $ 10 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price list
Acclimatization programme on Ak-Sai Glacier
Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake
Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

Conditions and notes:

Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 7 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 7 weeks) extra charge for formalities $ 50 per person is charged.
Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
3. Usually organization providing helicopter for work in area of Khan-Tengri Peak confirms price for helicopter service just before the season – in May. In case of significant rise in prices for helicopter flights (10% and more) ITMC reserves the right to change programme price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.
Every climber can take on helicopter up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (approx. one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check total weight on your flight. The price for overweight baggage on helicopter is $ 5 per kg.
Helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier usually operates from July 15 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.
6. If expedition group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.
Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of $ 40 000.

List of equipment:

High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, snowshoes, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood (down, goretex), warm & waterproof over-gloves or mitts, cap, balaclava, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), rope, ice axe, 5 season sleeping bag (dawn, for up to -30C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (60-80 l), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, ice axe.

BOOKING

The post Mountaineering expedition Khan-Tengri Peak first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Khan-Tengry peak

Администратор — Fri, 11 Feb 2022 05:21:11 +0000

Khan Tengry Peak from South

History of Khan-Tengry peak discovering
The first confirmed successful ascent was made in 1931, by a Ukrainian team – M. Pogrebetsky, B. Turin and F. Zauber. It took two years before they outlined the most logical rout of ascent. They walked along the Inylchek glacier to the peak Chapaev, then along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri and further up along the south-western slope. September 11, all three climbers reached the summit!
In the Soviet period, even local mountaineering needed special permissions and access for foreigners was totally prohibited. But since the late 80’s early 90’s – the area became more accessible to the public and each year dozens of climbers conquer the Peak!

Climate of Central Tien Shan
Mountaineering conditions in the region of Central Tien Shan is difficult, due to its very severe climate caused by tremendous glaciers, high peaks and unstable weather. The best period for mountaineering – July and August, although in September long periods of stable weather are also marked. In another period there is a lot of snow there and already in the middle of September the cold weather with strong winds comes.

Read the advises about ascent from Gleb Sokolov.

Scheme of the route by South-western ridge

Route. Ascent tactics to Khan-Tengry peak.
We recommend making an ascent by the classic route from the glacier Semenov by the southwestern ridge. For a successful mountaineering it is necessary to have experience of climbing in the mountains, the ability to use the climbing rope, to pass snow, rock and ice slopes. The summit of the mountain is located at the altitude of about seven thousand meters above sea level and to stay at such altitude requires a lot of efforts. We highly recommend having a tactic of gradual acclimatization and fixed timetable during the mountaineering. That will increase the security of the route. Technically difficult parts of the rout are worked up beforehand. Before starting the ascent it is necessary to spend a couple of days in the base camp, so we can get used to the altitude, gear, climbing area. You shouldn’t be too physical active, but it is also important not to stay in a tent for a long time. During the mountaineering you should constantly move.
The route starts from the Base Camp (BC) that is located on the glacier Inylchek at an altitude of 4000 m. There are tents for accommodation, dining room, kitchen, sauna, electricity and other facilities in the BC. We can leave the BC in the afternoon, so in 2-2, 5 hours you reach Camp 1 (4200 m). It is possible to spend night on the moraine. The next day it is necessary to start early in the morning (3-4 hours a.m.) so we can pass a dangerous area on the glacier Semenovski (4300 to 5100 m). There is a danger of falling under the ice collapse on the slope of the peak Chapaev; thus passing this dangerous area should be quick and early in the morning. On this day, it is also desirable to achieve the Semenovski glacier at an altitude of 5300-5400 m. It is possible to dig a snow cave there or to sleep in tents. The next day there will be the ascent on the saddle between Khan-Tengri peak and peak Chapaev (5,900 m). It is also advisable to dig a snow cave there and to examine visually the further route. The next day we can descent. The descent is very fast and after 4-5 hours you will be in the BC.
After acclimatization ascent there should be rest for a couple of days. This time should be devoted to the preparation of equipment and consultation on the route.
Then there will be the ascent. To the saddle at 5900m (Camp 3) we move on the same schedule as the first time. Then we go to camp 4 at 6400 m. The next day we can climb the summit and descend to camp 3.
The route goes on the right rocky slope of the south-western ridge to an altitude of 6700m. On the slope steep rises occur. The average slope of the route is about 40 degrees. At an altitude of 6700 m there will be traverse right towards the narrow cave. Then we go up the rocks to a rocky wall the height of which is 20 m.
Then there will be gradual ascent to the summit. At the altitude from 6700 up to 6900 the slope increases. The possible place for staying overnight is at an altitude 6400 – 6700 m. Most of the route is set out with fixed ropes. From 6900 to the summit the path is not too steep. Descent goes on the way of the ascent.

Recommended equipment: garments, footwear – a standard high-altitude set, high-altitude tent, warm sleeping bag (for -30 degrees), a sleeping pad, a gas stove, dishes, ice ax, crampons, harness, self-security line, 3-4 karabiners clip, a rappel device, high-altitude foodstuff.

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Program of ascent to Pobeda Peak 7439 m

Администратор — Fri, 11 Feb 2022 05:16:10 +0000

Pobeda Peak 7439 m, 26 days

History.
Pobeda Peak (7439 m) was geographically discovered in 1943, but not successfully climbed until 1956, following tragic ends to many of previous
attempts. Following V. Abalakov’s initial ascent, an expedition led by I.Erokhin in 1956 was the first to climb it via the Chon-Teren Glacier and in
1970 A.Ryabukhin’s expedition achieved the first complete traverse of the massif from east to west. Pobeda can be a savage mountain. Generally
obscured by thick cloud even during periods of relatively good weather, it is subject to unpredictable and violent snowstorms and extreme winds
that blow from the Takla Makan desert. There are 8 established routes on Pobeda Peak, the most difficult being on its northern slopes.

The route.
The most frequently climbed route (established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is to West Pobeda Peak (6918m) via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). MC
offers this route although ascent tactics varies according to the level of experience of expedition members and conditions prevailing on the mountain.
Any aspect of the programme may be adjusted to suit clients preferences.
From South Inylchek Base Camp (3995 m) it is 15 km approach along the Zviozdochka Glacier to reach the northern wall of Pobeda Peak.
Ascend along the icefall to the Dikiy Pass (5200 m) where Camp 1 can be established. Fixed ropes can be used for protection when crossing difficult
sections.
Continue ascent along the ridge. Camp 2 should be set up at the altitude of about 5800 m, just before the rocky section. A snow cave is often established
here, affording protection from cold winds that blow from the west.
From Camp 2 (5800 m) ascend along the snow, ice and rock ridge to the summit of West Pobeda Peak (6918m). Camp 3 can be established on the
South side of the main range, which is more protected from the wind. It is recommendable to use a snow cave.
From Camp 3 (6900 m) it is a 4 km traverse of the west ridge to the summit. Number of camps along rote could be more.
Descent follows the same route and takes two days.

Best season: July – August

Scheme of the route to Pobeda Peak 7439m
Description of the route to Pobeda peak (7439 m) along the Western Ridge over Dikij pass and Pobeda West.0-1: From BC beneath the Gorkij Peak cross the South Inylchek Glacier towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. Walk along
Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier)
the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. A first camp is
beneath the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp be on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass
and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda peak. A walk from BC to the camp 1-st is 5-10 hours.

1-2: Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to
the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5-10 degrees) to the Dikij pass
is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole
and pitch tents. The most technical place of this part of route is an icefall and ice walls up to 20 m high.

3-4: 5700-6700 – ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are easy, snow-ice places
are 20-40˚. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m,
6400 m, before black triangle at an altitude 6600 and higher 6700 m. Ascent to this part of the route may take
from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances.

4-5: From the black rock triangle way to the Western Pobeda is 4-8 hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, class
of difficulty is 2-3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould
of one of the South-Western summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent
or make a snow cave.

5-6: From Western Pobeda to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide
snow ridge (4-6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould possible
to take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make snow cave or iglu.

6-7: After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200-300 m), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and
snow-ice places with the steepness of 20-40˚ get to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200-250 m,
where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western
side leave a top message in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East – in
the Eastern part. From “Obelisk” to the summit is 4-8 hours walk. Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the
nights depend on weather and other circumstances.

The post Program of ascent to Pobeda Peak 7439 m first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Lenin Peak 7134m

Администратор — Fri, 11 Feb 2022 05:11:24 +0000

Lenin Peak (till 1928 it was called Kaufmann Peak) — is one of the mountains over 7,000 metres high, one of the highest mountains of the former USSR. It is also one of the highest peaks of Central Asia; it is situated in Pamir mountain range.

Lenin Peak (7134m) – is situated in Zaalaiskii mountain ridge of Pamir range on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. In Kyrgyzstan it is situated in Chon-Alai region in Osch oblast. In Tajikistan it is in Gorno-Badahshanskaya autonomous region. Zaalaiskii mountain ridge raises Alai valley as a big snow wall. There are several large glaciers on the slopes: Lenin Peak from the north and Oktyabrskii, Bolshaya and Malaya Saukdara from the south. The southern slopes are more difficult of access because of long distances between them and itineraries. The northern and southern slopes are about 40-50 degrees. Snow avalanches are often on Lenin Peak. The snow line on the northern slopes is at 4200-4500m, on the southern slopes – 4800-5000m. There is an approach for vehicles to the Lukovaya Polyana (Onion Meadow) to Lenin glacier. It takes about two days to approach the starting point of the route from the mail road if you go from the southern side. That is why most of the climbers prefer the northern side.

The Peak was discovered and described 1871 by a great Russian geographer and traveler Aleksei Pavlovich Fedchenko. He named it after Konstantin Pavlovich Kaufman, the governor-general of Turkestan.

1928 the Peak was renamed Lenin Peak.

Lenin Peak was considered to be the highest in Pamir mountain range and in the USSR till 1933 they climbed it and found out that it was lower than Communism Peak (7495m), called Stalin Peak at that time.

The German alpinists Karl Wien and Eugene Allwein were the first to climb it the 25th of September, 1928. They did it during the Soviet-German expedition headed by Gorbunov.

People’s commissar Krylenko also took part in this expedition. Later almost all soviet participants of the expedition were executed by shooting. Only two people survived accidentally – cameraman Shneiderov and one of the leaders of the expedition Shmidt. During the repressions he was in a long-termed polar expedition.

There was little information about the very first climbing as it was done by the Germans. Their itinerary was from Saukdary and then from Krylenko pass to the Peak. The second to climb the mountain were participants of army alpiniad – K. Chernuha, V. Abalakov, and I. Lukin. It was 1934. Their itinerary was from the northern side. Later it was called “the itinerary over Lipkin’s rocks”. There were no signs of people found on the top by this group. And they were considered to be the first people who climbed the mountain. Later they arrived at the truth and now the Germans are considered to be the first.

1973 a group of 8 alpinists headed by Lev Barhash reach the top. It was the third climb.

The 14th of August, 1950 a group of twelve alpinists of Turkestan military district climb Lenin Peak for the first time after the war.
One of the mass ascents took place 1967. At that time 300 people took part in it.

Nowadays there are 18 alpinist itineraries to the top. Nine of them go on the southern side and nine on the northern side. The classical itinerary is on the northern side over Razdelnaya Peak. It does not require a special technical preparation or big alpinist experience. It is only required to be healthy and have a great wish to do it. That’s why Lenin Peak is considered to be one of the easiest to achieve mountains over 7,000 metres high. Although there were several rather tragic records established. 1968 the very first group parachute jumping at 6100m was successful. The same year a group parachute jumping at 7000m was tragic – 4 parachute jumpers died. The very first ski downhill was made by alpinist Suloev 1968. The year of 1974 is remembered by the most alpinists as a very tragic one. 8 women alpinists died during a traverse of Lenin Peak. 1990 there was a snow slide in the region of the Camp 2. 43 alpinists died. Their remains were found only 2009. Though, in general there aren’t any accidents and everything depends only on the weather conditions.

On the 4th of July, 2006 the Peak was renamed after Abuali ibn Sino by the decision of Tajikistan government. On the territory of Kyrgyzstan it remains Lenin Peak.

The badge for climbing Lenin Peak.

1957 there was instituted a prize badge “Lenin Peak” at the initiative of V.I. Razek. The badge was presented to those alpinists who reached the top of the Peak. From the day of its establishment, the badge was presented by Razek Vladimir Iosifovich to more than 2000 of alpinists from many countries and of all continents of the world. After his death the honour to present the badge “Lenin Peak” was given to his family. Nowadays after his wife Galina, eldest daughter Nadezhda with her husband and her son had left for the USA (the Irina the youngest daughter of Vladimir Iosifovich lives in Moscow), there is no one to re-establish the system of awarding those alpinists who visited the worldwide famous Peak.

The itineraries to the top of Lenin Peak from the northern side.

The itineraries to the top of Lenin Peak from the northern side.

Route 2. – Over Lipkin’s rocks– instructor V.Razek, 1950

Route 3. – Over Razdelnaja mountain– instructor V.Kovalev, 1954

Route 4. – From Krylenko pass – instructor Cheredova, 1960

Route 5. – In the centre of the northern slope – instructor Ya.Arkin, 1960

Route 6. – Over north-eastern crest – instructor. Yu.Skurlatov, 1967

Route 7. – Over the Peak of 30th anniversary of Uzbek Republic – instructor N.Shabanova, 1970

Route 8. – Over north-eastern slope of the eastern crest – instructor R.Benua, 1974

Route 9. – Over north-eastern slope of the eastern crest (a variant) – instructor S.Duog, 1974

THE CLIMATE IN THE REGION OF LENIN PEAK

The climate in the region is very contrasting. In the low part it is temperate, in the higher zone the climate is more severe polar. The summer is short; it lasts from June till August. In the highland the warming up comes late that’s why while July is the warmest month in Alai valley, on the mountain slopes it is August.

The variations in temperature are rather considerable. In the summer time they can reach from +5 degrees at the daytime till – 30 degrees at night.

With heightening the temperature falls approximately 0,5 degrees for each 100 meters of elevation.

The winds have south-western and western direction. In the daytime the wind speed reaches 6-8 m/sec., and it slows down to 2-4 m/sec. And sometimes it calms down up to dead calm. Though in the daytime sudden and strong gusts up to 15 m/sec and more can be registered. Glacier snow that forms as the result of stormy winds higher than 6200m can be noticed in the higher part of the crests of Zaalaiskii mountain range.

These winds are the most dangerous during the mountaineering.

The cloudiness is insignificant. The most cloudless period is in August. As a rule, the weather becomes worse, and it snows at the end of August. There is more precipitation in July than in August. In the second part of September there is a period of settled weather again.

Storms and fog are rare here. Every day after 14 o’clock there are strong winds in the region of lobes. The air streams head down in the valley and can blow off weak fastened tents.

The best time for climbing Lenin Peak is the first part of August. Although in general the weather is good, there can be long periods of bad weather (up to 4-5 days).

LENIN PEAK APPROACH

The approach to Lenin Peak is from Osh town that is region centre. This is where all expeditions to Lenin Peak start from. The way goes from Osh over Pamir road Osh – Horog. First over Chigirchik pass to the region centre Gulcha (120km), then it goes to Taldyk pass of 3650m. A small descent and again a pass named after the 40th anniversary of Kyrgyzstan (3513m). From the pass the way goes down to Alai valley to Sary-Tash village. There is a guesthouse in the village. From Sary-Tash the road goes across Alai valley to Kashka-Suu village, and then up to the mountains in Achik-Tash hole to Edelweiss glade, where the alpinist base camps are situated. The glade lies at the height of 3800 m above sea level. The way from Osh to Edelweiss glade takes about 8-10 hours.

The post Lenin Peak 7134m first appeared on Lenin Peak.

Mustag Ata Peak 7546m

Администратор — Fri, 04 Feb 2022 10:48:34 +0000

Muztag-Ata is the “father of the ice mountains” – a mountain in the Pamir, located in the territory of China. The height is 7546 m, due to the gentle western slope and relatively dry weather in the region.

Muztag-Ata is located near the south of Kongur, the highest peak of the Kongurmuztag mountain range. Together they form an almost isolated group separated from the Kunlun Ridge in the east and from the rest of the Pamir in the west. To the northeast of this mountain system lies the Tarim basin and the Takla-Makan desert. Between the peaks there is the Kara-Kol lake, next to which is the Karakorum highway.

From the ice dome Muztagata descends 16 glaciers. The largest of them – Coxel, located on the eastern slope, has a length of 21 km.

The Swedish researcher and geographer Sven Gedin was the first, whose attempt to conquer the Muztag-Ata mountain in 1894 was recorded. The following attempts were made in 1900 and 1904 and 1947.

In 1956, a large group of Chinese and Soviet athletes successfully crossed the summit through the western ridge, along a route that is now considered standard. More complex routes along the eastern and southern ridges of the summit were completed, respectively, in 2000 and in 2005

The post Mustag Ata Peak 7546m first appeared on Lenin Peak.