Traditional Areas

Mountains cover 95% of the territory of Kyrgyzstan and 40% of those are above 3,000 meters high. There are many regions where the foot of climber has never stepped. In Kyrgyzstan, such regions as high vertical walls or 5,000 meters and over mountains are well explored. Anything besides aforementioned is not of any interest for climbers, especially if it’s lower than 4,000 m. Thousands of accessible and gorgeous summits are still virgin

The most popular and mostly visited region in Kyrgyz range is area of the Ak-Sai glacier in the Ala-Archa canyon, Karakol and Jety- Oguz and Western Kokshal-Too.

 

     Ala-Archa: More than 160 routes have been taken here. The routes are of different complexity from the easy ones to the most difficult walls up to 1100 meters high (Svobodnya Korea peak). Rocky ridge belts around the Ak- Sai, Nauka and Uchitel glaciers in a horseshoe shape. It includes the following summits: Box (4,200m), Teke-Tor (4,441m), Ak-Too (4,600m), Svobodnaya Korea (4,740m), Simagin (4,400m), Bailyan-Bashi (4,700m), Cosmonavtov (4,200m), Dvurogaya (4,380m), Corona (4,855m), Semenov-Tienshanskyi (4,895m), Skryabina (4,650m), Baichichekei (4,515m) and  Uchitel (4,527m)

 

 

   Karakol and Jety- Oguz: The highest peaks, the most interesting itineraries and the highest walls of the Terskey Ala- Too range are located here. The highest peaks are Jigit (5,170m), Karakolskyi (5,256m) and Oguz- Bashi (5,120m). More than 150 routes have been developed here varying from the easiest to the very difficult ones. Mostly routes are rocky or combined, however ice-snow or snow routes are not frequently found. Elevation is 1,500 m. In the upper reaches of canyons, routes are mostly combined and in the middle area are mostly rocky.

The Karakol canyon is administrated by Aksuiskyi raion and Jety-Oguz canyon by Jetyoguzskyi raion of Issik-Kul oblast. Both canyons are located to the south of eastern edge of lake Issik-Kul on the northern slopes of Terskey Ala-Too range. The climate of the region is considerably milder then of the Central Tien-Shan much depending on true altitudes and proximity to lake Issik-Kul. Annual precipitation is quite heavy – up to 2000 millimeters. It mostly falls in the beginning of summer, however snow and thunder storms are common for July and August as well. The weather is more settled in September but autumn is much colder in mountains than summer. The best time for climbing is July – September.

 

         Western Kokshal-Too : Western part of one of the most extensive and highest ranges in the Tien-Shan stretching almost for 500 km is really one of the best and interesting places for climbing. It is the Western Kokshal-Too. The administration of the region is divided by two raions. Territory to the east of Kotur canyon is Jetyoguzskyi raion of the Issikkulskay oblast and to the west is Atbashinskyi raion of the Narynskaya oblast. Speaking geographically the region is rather the western end of the highest part of the Kokshal-Too range than the very western part of the whole range. Altitude here exceeds 5,000m. It is located to the center part of the range. Drawing imaginary line from the very center of Lake Issik-Kul to the south on the intersection with Kokshal-Too range, we can define the location of the Western Kokshal-Too. It borders with China