Season: May – June, September – October 2013
Duration: 10 days
This course is specially developed for mountaineers and climbers who want to combine learning of new skills and exploring new destination and culture.
Skills and knowledge
- Introduction to basic climbing equipment;
- Attaching to the rope and other climbing knots;
- Moving efficiently over rocky ‘scrambling’ terrain;
- Belaying and protection techniques on rock, ice and snow;
- Use of crampons and ice axe on snow and ice;
- Taking coils and moving together with the rope;
- Short rope techniques for different types of alpine terrain;
- Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
- Descending on snow and ice;
- Alpine navigation and interpretation of maps and guidebook;
- Preparation and selection of climbing equipment;
For advanced mountaineers:
- To give you the full range of alpine rock climbing experiences;
- To coach and develop your existing climbing skills, which in turn will build the confidence needed to climb safely and efficiently in this challenging environment;
- To enjoy some high-quality, classic alpine rock routes;
- Appropriate route selection for prevailing conditions and abilities ;
- Moving together with the rope on different types of alpine terrain;
- Safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue;
- Interpretation of alpine conditions and weather.
Area of training in brief.
Being located on 3300m in Ala-Archa Gorge in North Tien-Shan mountains, Ak-Sai Glacier is one of the most popular and spectacular places for mountaineering and climbing. About 150 routes from the simplest to the most complicated walls lifting up to 1100 m have been travelled there. The summits lift up to the altitude of 4895 m (the highest point of the range is Semenov Tien-Shanskyi Peak). Routes are rock, combined, seldom ice and snow-ice. The rocks consist of tough granite and granodiorite. The difference of altitude is till 1100 m. The difference of altitude is till 1100 m.
It takes one hour drive from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, then and three-four hours of hike from the road terminal in Ala-Archa Gorge to Ak-Sai.The amount of precipitation attains 690 mm p/a. The least amount of precipitation falls in September while the largest one is in May and June. The average temperature is +12 C in spring, -7 C in winter, and +30 C in summer.
|2.||Early morning arrival to Bishkek. Airport pick-up, transfer to the hotel. Rest. Last minute preparations, shopping.||Hotel 2* / Guest House|
|3.||Morning transfer to Ala-Archa Nature Park (1 hour). Trek up to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut, 3200m (4-5 hours). Overnight in the mountain hut.||Ak-Sai Mountain Hut|
|4-8.||Acclimatization and training. Ascent to the peaks of 4 000 m – 4 800 m.||Ak-Sai Mountain Hut|
|9.||Trek down to the Nature Park, transfer back to Bishkek.
Option: Sightseeing around Bishkek.
|Hotel 2* / Guest House|
|10.||Early morning departure.||–|
Group of 5 persons USD 315 per person
NB: Mountain Guide-Instructor works with group of maximum 5 trainees
Full board supplement: USD 220 per person per program
Half Board Supplement: USD 130 per person per program
Single room supplement: USD 40 per person per program (available in Bishkek only)
Service included in the program price:
- Certificate of Mountaineering & Climbing School
- Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
- Registration in local Rescue Service
- Airport-hotel transfers in Bishkek, return way
- Transfers from Bishkek to Ala-Archa Gorge, return way
- Mountain Guide (including his meals and gear)
– – in Bishkek: – 2* Hotel or Guest House – for 3 nights including early check-in
NB: Prices for Hotels 3*, 4*, 5* are available by request.
– – in Ala-Archa Gorge: Ak-Sai Mountain Hut – for 7 nights
Service available at extra payment (not included in the program):
- Kyrgyz visa fee
- Visa support (if required)
- Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
- Transfer / flight from Almaty (Kazakhstan) to Bishkek
- Full board during the program (USD 220 per person per program)
- Half board during the program (USD 130 per person per program)
- Dehydrated meals for ascent: by request
- Bar in Ak-Sai Hut
- Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $8 per canister (230gr)
- Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit $400 is required): $25 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
- Use of sat phone in Ak-Sai Mountain Hut is free of charge, cost of calls and sms only are paid: $4 / minute, $2 / sms.
- Porterage service to deliver personal gear to Ak-Sai Mountain Hut – USD 35 per porter
Note: 1 porter carry up to 20 kg. Overweight has to be paid USD 3 per kg extra.
- Excursions in Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others
- Trekking and Horseback riding tours in Kyrgyzstan
Conditions and notes:
1) Group members provide personal mountaineering gear for training by themselves.
2) If the group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek in advance, Kyrgyz Alpine Club can assist with customs clearance.
3) Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of $ 40 000.
List of equipment:
Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, boots for combined routes and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, rope, harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug.