Pobeda Peak 7439 m, 26 days
Pobeda Peak (7439 m) was geographically discovered in 1943, but not successfully climbed until 1956, following tragic ends to many of previous
attempts. Following V. Abalakov’s initial ascent, an expedition led by I.Erokhin in 1956 was the first to climb it via the Chon-Teren Glacier and in
1970 A.Ryabukhin’s expedition achieved the first complete traverse of the massif from east to west. Pobeda can be a savage mountain. Generally
obscured by thick cloud even during periods of relatively good weather, it is subject to unpredictable and violent snowstorms and extreme winds
that blow from the Takla Makan desert. There are 8 established routes on Pobeda Peak, the most difficult being on its northern slopes.
The most frequently climbed route (established by D. Medzmariashvili in 1961) is to West Pobeda Peak (6918m) via the Dikiy Pass (5200m). MC
offers this route although ascent tactics varies according to the level of experience of expedition members and conditions prevailing on the mountain.
Any aspect of the programme may be adjusted to suit clients preferences.
From South Inylchek Base Camp (3995 m) it is 15 km approach along the Zviozdochka Glacier to reach the northern wall of Pobeda Peak.
Ascend along the icefall to the Dikiy Pass (5200 m) where Camp 1 can be established. Fixed ropes can be used for protection when crossing difficult
Continue ascent along the ridge. Camp 2 should be set up at the altitude of about 5800 m, just before the rocky section. A snow cave is often established
here, affording protection from cold winds that blow from the west.
From Camp 2 (5800 m) ascend along the snow, ice and rock ridge to the summit of West Pobeda Peak (6918m). Camp 3 can be established on the
South side of the main range, which is more protected from the wind. It is recommendable to use a snow cave.
From Camp 3 (6900 m) it is a 4 km traverse of the west ridge to the summit. Number of camps along rote could be more.
Descent follows the same route and takes two days.
Best season: July – August
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation
Day 2. Drive to Karakol 400 km. Hotel or guest house accommodation
Day 3. Drive to Maydaadyr place. Accommodation at the intermediate camp
Day 4. Flight to BC Inylchek (4000m above sea level)
Days 5-24. Acclimatization and ascent to Pobeda Peak
Day 25. Helicopter flight to Maydaadyr, then drive to Karakol. Hotel or guest house
Day 26. Drive to Bishkek. Hotel. Farewell dinner
Day 27. Departure
Quotation: 1500 Euro per person
Single supplement – 40 Euro p.p.
Price includes the following service:
-All transfers and transportation
-helicopter flight to BC and back
-accommodation at hotels in Bishkek and Karakol breakfast included
-transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Maydaadyr and back
-accommodation at the Mazdaadyr camp, full board -free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC
-consultancy of the route
-consultancy of doctor
-registration with local Rescue Party
-radio telecommunication service (long distance)
-walky-talky during ascents
-usage of fixed ropes on the route
-permit for military zone
-The cost of Kyrgyz visa
-Beverages and meals not included in main menu
-All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
Conditions and notes:
1) Climbers do ascent and choose tactics for the ascent by themselves.
2) It is necessary to have personal mountaineering gear which is necessary for ascent.
3) MC provides with all necessary food (meat, vegetables, cereal, bread, butter, sugar, milk, tea etc) in the Base Camp, but it is necessary to have
special high-altitude food for days of ascent.
4) Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg
of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check total weight on your flight. The price for overweight is EUR … per kg.
5) Dates of work of helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier are as follows: from July 10 till August 31 and sometimes till September 10.
6) All climbers must have medical insurance with minimum coverage EUR 15 000. We recommend insurance policies of EUR 30 000 and more
which covers helicopter emergency transportation.
The program can be changed and individualized according to your interests. Please feel free to suggest any changes and variations that are of
interest to you. Thank you.
Food for ascent by separate order
Rent tent for ascent – 50 Euro
Gas cartridges Propan-Butan 230 gr – 8 Euro for one
Satellite phone – 3 Euro per min.
Guiding to the top:
The group size 1 pax – 1300 Euro
The group size 2 pax – 850 Euro per pax
The group size 3 pax – 700 Euro per pax
BC – camp 1 – 2 Euro per kg
Camp 1 – camp 2 – 8 Euro per kg
Camp 2 – camp 3 – 16 Euro per kg
Scheme of the route to Pobeda Peak 7439m
Description of the route to Pobeda peak (7439 m) along the Western Ridge over Dikij pass and Pobeda West.0-1: From BC beneath the Gorkij Peak cross the South Inylchek Glacier towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. Walk along
Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier)
the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. A first camp is
beneath the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp be on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass
and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda peak. A walk from BC to the camp 1-st is 5-10 hours.
1-2: Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to
the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5-10 degrees) to the Dikij pass
is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole
and pitch tents. The most technical place of this part of route is an icefall and ice walls up to 20 m high.
3-4: 5700-6700 – ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are easy, snow-ice places
are 20-40˚. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m,
6400 m, before black triangle at an altitude 6600 and higher 6700 m. Ascent to this part of the route may take
from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances.
4-5: From the black rock triangle way to the Western Pobeda is 4-8 hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, class
of difficulty is 2-3. The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould
of one of the South-Western summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent
or make a snow cave.
5-6: From Western Pobeda to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called “Obelisk”) there are 3 km of wide
snow ridge (4-6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath “Obelisk” in the big mould possible
to take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make snow cave or iglu.
6-7: After a walk from “Obelisk” along the rock ridge (200-300 m), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and
snow-ice places with the steepness of 20-40˚ get to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200-250 m,
where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western
side leave a top message in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East – in
the Eastern part. From “Obelisk” to the summit is 4-8 hours walk. Descent takes the ascent route. Camps for the
nights depend on weather and other circumstances.